Friday, March 4, 2022

True to the Land

Verterra Winery

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #75

Kathy, Randy, Christie, and I had just finished our “laid back” visit to Green Bird and noticed it was just a little after 2:30 pm.  We had about another 2 ½ hours to go before the Toast the Season tour ended for the day.  Kathy and Christie had mapped out our next stop, which, based on two previous visits over the past two years, was one of Kathy’s favorite wineries in the Traverse City area – Verterra Winery.  It was a 9.5-mile drive from Green Bird to Verterra, traveling south on M-22 into downtown Leland, site of the Verterra Tasting Room.  The Tasting Room is on East River Street, a half block east of M-22 on the north side of the street.  There is a parking lot just east of the tasting room, and parking is also allowed on the street. 

The Tasting Room is in a quaint little building that was built in 1927 and was originally a barber shop and a pool hall.  S.R. Gain, the barber and owner of the building, had the brick facing of the building constructed using leftover bricks from the Immanuel Lutheran Church, located a short distance away on Pearl Street.  Over the years, the building also served as the library (until the early 1970’s), gift shops, and a real estate office.  Then, in the Spring of 2011, Paul and Marty Hamelin purchased the building to serve as the Tasting Room for their winery.

Paul and Marty started the Verterra (which means “true to the land”) Winery by purchasing a former cherry orchard and planting their first acre of grapes in 2006.  It was the culmination of a growing passion for wine that had evolved over years.  They released their first vintage in 2010.  Today, the vineyard (which the Hamelins affectionately refer to as “Frost Pocket”) is over 40 acres in size, yielding grapes that are made into 20 different wines.  Many of these wines have won prestigious awards over the years, most noticeably, the Michigan Wine Competition’s “Best Dry White Wine in the State of Michigan” for 3 consecutive years (2017-2019), a feat never accomplished by any other wine in the 35-year history of the event.

We have had the pleasure of talking with Paul and Marty during our past visits, but that was not the case today.  It was very busy in the Tasting Room on this particular day.  In fact, the line extended out the front door, so some of the unlucky ones (namely me) had to stand out in the frigid cold for a few minutes before they could get inside.  Verterra had their check-in table set up in the southeast corner of the room.  The wine bar itself extends the whole length of the west side of the room, and there is a ledge that runs the length of the east wall where people can set their wine glass and food while standing.  The food served by Verterra for this year’s Toast the Season event was a char-grilled pizzetta with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh spinach, garlic feta, and mozzarella.  They paired it with your choice of Chaos White or Chaos Sparkler.  Kathy went with the White, so I went with the Sparkler.  Both selections were very good and paired very well with the pizzetta.

We had to wait quite awhile to find a place at the bar after we finished our pairing.  Once there, we were greeted by our server who presented us with our menus.  One of our favorite things about Verterra is how well you are taken care of while at the Tasting Room.  Everyone working there is so pleasant, informative, and helpful.  Every server seems to have a passion for being a part of this enterprise, and regardless of how busy they are, they make sure to spend time with you, explaining the wine you are about to sample, what it is made of (grape variety), its flavor characteristics, its aroma, and what their personal thoughts are on the wine.  I always feel smarter when I walk out of there!

We got to choose 3 complimentary tastings, so after surveying the menu for a few minutes, we made our choices.  Here is what we settled on:

Kathy’s selections:

  • Pinot Blanc – Look for hints of Meyer lemon, lime, and clementine peels.
  • Unoaked Chardonnay 2017 – Tropical fruits and honeysuckle dominate this steel fermented Chardonnay
  • Chaos Red – This fruit forward red is an easy-to-drink medium-dry table wine.

John’s selections:

  • Dry Gewürztraminer 2017 – Warm spices, unmistakable rose petals with grapefruit citrus notes.
  • Late Harvest Vignoles 2018 – Stone fruit notes make this a very appealing wine and top seller.
  • Late Harvest Riesling 2017 – This is a well-balanced wine with a mellow sweetness with aromas of apricot and honey.

The Pinot Blanc was fantastic.  It was not overly dry and it had a very pleasant taste.  We decided we needed a bottle of this.  We both enjoyed the Chardonnay and the Chaos Red (chosen because, afterall, we had the Chaos White with the pairing, so we had to compare), but did not take either one of those home.  The Gewürztraminer was good, and I am starting to really acquire a taste for this type of wine, but it was too dry for me.  The Late Harvest Vignoles was by far my favorite, but we still had a bottle of that from 2018, so we held off buying another one.  But a close second was the Late Harvest Riesling, which both of us really enjoyed.  We walked out with a bottle of that as well.  We bid farewell to our server, cashed out with our two bottles of wine, found Christie and Randy, and then headed out to our next stop.

Be sure to visit the Verterra Winery website for more information:

https://www.verterrawinery.com/



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Sunday, February 27, 2022

Dude, Relax, Have a Glass of Wine

Green Bird Organic Cellars & Farm

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #74

Our next visit on our Toast the Season 2019 tour was to one of the more unique wineries on the Leelanau Peninsula.  It is one of my favorite wineries because it feels down-to-earth, natural – kinda organic!!!  It has a very low-key, laid-back vibe, and - I say this affectionately - it reminds me of the hippie days from the 1970’s.  Being an organic farm is part of its brand, as you can order fresh eggs from pasture-raised hens, three different kinds of herbal teas, and seasonal produce, all while drinking wine and hard ciders.  Throw in the two-sided fireplace in the middle of the room, and this is a cozy place to hang out on a bitter cold November day.

We headed south as we left Baia Estates in Northport, and took the M-22 route as it starts to cut across the Leelanau Peninsula before following the coastline along the west side of the peninsula.  As we cut across, M-22 is called North Manitou Trail along this stretch.  About 1.91 miles southwest of M-22’s apex (where N West Bay Shore Drive meets North Manitou Trail), there is a dirt road called East Engles Road that heads west.  From there, we drove about 0.3 miles west of North Manitou Trail to a dirt driveway on the north side that heads and winds north until you get to the Green Bird Tasting Room (about 0.2 miles).  The building looks like a large pull barn, painted a light green with white and burnt orange trim.  It is a very unique looking building in the middle of the countryside. 

Once inside, the front half of the building is dedicated to the tasting room, while the back half, I believe, is the production facility.  Again, the striking feature inside the room is the stone fireplace in the middle of the room.  The bar is L-shaped, running along a portion of the east wall and then along the full length of the south side of the room.  They had the check-in table and pairing table set up in the northwest corner of the room.  It was fairly busy in the Tasting Room, but we did not have to wait long to get our Sweet Potato Casserole with Marshmallow Pecan Streusel paired with their Apple Pie-der hard cider.

There was one big change since the last time we visited Green Bird.  This was our third visit, having been here the previous two years during this same Toast the Season event.  New owners had taken over Green Bird since our last visit.  With that, a little history lesson is in order.

Green Barn Farm was established in 2005 by the original owners.  They added the winery in 2014.  In the meantime, Betsy and Tim Hearin were working as public-school teachers in New Orleans.  Both Tim and Betsy tired of the politics and drama associated with the education system in New Orleans, so they eventually quit their jobs and basically became urban farmers.  They grew fruits and veggies, and raised chickens on their property in New Orleans.  They used abandoned lots around their home to increase their volume of vegetables and fruits, and sold their harvest to customers in the area.  Their plan was to do this for 4 years, assuming they did not go into debt.  Since Betsy was originally from Traverse City, the plan at that point was to move back up to northern Michigan.  In March of 2019, Tim and Betsy fulfilled their plan by buying the 67-acre Green Bird Farm. 

Tim and Betsy produce less than 500 cases of wines per year, with all wines produced on-site from estate-grown vineyards. The wines aren’t distributed, so the only place you can get any is at the Tasting Room. They also make ciders and homebrews as well.  All the ingredients are made on the farm, and as a result, they are the only organic winery in the state.

The best part about my research was finding this quote from Betsy.  I found it after I had written my comments above about the vibe in the tasting room.  Here is her quote: “We’ve always been pretty hippie, back to the land. This was a way for us to put our dreams in action.”

We enjoyed our food and wine sample while sitting around the toasty fireplace.  When we finished, we found some spots along the east facing section of the bar.  It was crowded, and this was the only space available.  The wines and cider available for the day were written on a couple of whiteboards across the bar from us.  It was a very limited selection – 4 wines, a sangria, and 2 hard ciders.  When our server was able to break free from the crowd around the corner from us, we were told we could help ourselves to everything that was available that day.  Again, that just fit the laid-back atmosphere I mentioned earlier.  So, we started at the top of the list and worked our way down (see below for the wines and ciders available that day as well as the list of wines and ciders currently available).  We enjoyed our first tasting, and by this time, the crowd had dissipated and we were able to move to the southern portion of the bar.  We now had the full attention of the servers, who were very helpful, talkative, informative, and fun.  We tried everything on the list, and quite honestly, enjoyed every one of them.  Our favorite was the 2016 O Doce, which was the port, and the Apple Pie-der.

Our time at Green Bird was fun and relaxing, but it was approaching 2:30 and our itinerary for the day demanded we stay focused and move on to the next stop.  So much for that carefree, laid-back attitude.  It was fun while it lasted.

Be sure to visit the Green Bird Organic Cellars & Farm website for more information:

https://www.greenbirdcellars.com/

 


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Saturday, January 15, 2022

Say GoodBaia to Northport

Baia Estate Winery Tasting Room

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #73

It was about 1:40 pm when we pulled out of the parking lot at Leelanau Wine Cellars.  So far, on the first day of Toast the Season 2019, we had visited 5 wineries, which put us on a very good pace (one winery every 30 minutes).  We hopped back onto M-22 and headed north for nearly 6 miles, entering the town of Northport, the location of our sixth winery.  This would be our northernmost stop for the weekend.  It would also be our very first visit to Baia Estate Winery.

At the time, the Baia (pronounced BYE-ah, the word is Italian for “bay”) Estate Winery Tasting Room was located in the New Bohemian Café located on South Waukazoo Street.  It was in a nicely restored building with a very quaint and homey interior.  In late 2021, the Tasting Room relocated to The Union, basically right across the street from its former location, on the corner of South Waukazoo Street and West Nagonaba Street.  All of our pictures below reflect the old location since we have yet to visit the new place.

I have found it difficult to put together any history on the Baia Estate Winery.  Their website does not include any historical information other than to state that the estate is 70 acres in size and that they specialize in Italian-style wines.  They currently grow Chardonnay, Riesling, Fruliano, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir grapes.  I was able to find a couple of articles on the web that helped fill in some of the blanks – an article in The Ticker written by Emily Tyra and published on Sept. 10, 2021, and an article in the TCBN written by Craig Manning for their February 2021 issue.  I could not find a date when the Baia Estate Winery was established, but I did find out that it is owned by Michael “Chet” Chetcuti and Kyle Evans.  It is part of a conglomerate of food and beverage businesses under the umbrella of Farm + Ferment.  Before this had all taken place, Chet was an engineer in the automotive industry selling parts globally.  By 2006, he and his partners bought a stake in the company – he is still co-owner to this day. 

Like so many stories we have heard in the past, Chet’s foray into food and beverages came as a result of his and his partners passion for food, wine, and beer.  They bought their first food and wine business in 1998 – the Cloverleaf Fine Wine in metro Detroit.  Today, under the Farm + Ferment brand, they have expanded and own a group of southeast Michigan Italian eateries called Bigalora Wood Fired Cucina, the Ypsilanti-based Arbor Brewing Company, the Michigan Hop Alliance, and Baia Estate Vineyards in Leelanau County.  Ironically, there is a Bigalora Wood Fired Cucina just two miles away from our home in a restaurant space that used to be one of our favorite hangouts a few short years ago.  Now we have a reason to visit and start up a new tradition and, hopefully, a new favorite place to hang out.

Purchasing the Baia Estate Vineyard was Chet’s and his partners’ first step into making their own wine.  Their success in this area emboldened them to get into the hops growing business so they could craft their own beers.  Today, the vineyard supplies all the wine to their Bigalora restaurants (5 locations in southeast Michigan).  The vineyard has matured to the point where they harvest enough grapes to make enough wine to sell to the general public.  Although I could not find out when they opened their tasting room in the New Bohemian Café, I was able to piece together that they entered into a relationship with Eric Allchin (of The Union and The Tribune) and his business partner, Chef Paul Carlson, to officially team together to offer wine tastings at The Union at the latter end of 2021.  Eric and his team run the tasting room.

Someday, we will get to visit their new location, but on this day, we were enjoying ourselves at the New Bohemian Café.  It was very crowded as we entered building.  The tasting bar was located along the north wall of the room.  There were tables scattered around and, if I recall, the New Bohemian Café operated on the south side of the room.  We were each given our food and wine samples – a cream puff drizzled with house-made dark chocolate ganache and a sample of their Sparkling Riesling.  Up to this point, it was my favorite pairing of the day.  After finishing our wine and cream puff, we found spots at the bar and scanned over the wine menu.  Baia Estates offered eight different wines, and we got to choose 2 tastings each.  One of the wines that stood out was their Lambo.  We have some very good friends that we actually met through our son, David.  His friend’s nickname is Lambo (a derivative of his last name).  His dad is affectionately called Coach Lambo.  So naturally, we HAD to try that wine.  Our server was kind enough to let us try a sample of the Lambo, which was a LIMITED RELEASE Lambrusco-inspired sparkling red with bold berry notes, rose petal, and sweet spices.  Our tasting selections ended up being the following:

Kathy’s selection:

  • Pinot Grigio – clean, bright, apple and pear notes
  • Rosé – Southern French style, dry and rich with melon, rose and hints of cherry

John’s selections:

  • Riesling – Dry and fruit-forward with apple, apricot and spice notes
  • Pinot Noir – Delicate cherry and pomegranate with accents of tea leaf

Although we enjoyed all of the wines, we decided not to buy anything at this time.  However, we did buy a bottle of the Lambo so we could give it to our friends as a gift.

We did enjoy our visit to Baia Estates.  It is good to know that we only have to go a couple of miles to have another taste of their wine.  A visit to Bigalora is in the cards.

Be sure to visit the Baia Estate Winery website for more information:     

https://www.baiaestate.com/

 



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Friday, January 14, 2022

Chilling on the Shores of Omena Bay

Leelanau Wine Cellars Tasting Room

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #72

 Kathy, Randy, Christie, and I enjoyed our visit to Silver Leaf, where we experienced a more intimate atmosphere with a much smaller crowd milling about.  But that was about to change as we headed to our next destination – Leelanau Wine Cellars.  Located on the shores of Omena Bay in downtown Omena, Leelanau Wine Cellars is one of the more popular and commercial wineries in the state serving over 40,000 customers annually.  Bottles of their wine can be bought at many retail stores around the state, including the Kroger’s grocery store just down the street from us.  Every time we have been to this Tasting Room, there have been large crowds, and today would be no different. 

We parked in the lot along the shoreline and entered the tasting room from the rear entrance, scaling a flight of stairs.  The Tasting Room is in the shape of a large L, with a magnificent view of the bay.  The wine tasting bar runs the full length of the south wall.  The rest of the walls (not including the windowed walls) are loaded with racks of wine.  The food-and-wine pairing table was set up along the bank of windows, so we at least got to enjoy the view as we waited for our servings.

Leelanau Wine Cellars was founded in 1974 by the Jacobson family.  They originally set up shop in a cherry orchard.  Nearly 50 years later, the Jacobson family still owns and runs the winery, with Bob Jacobson being its current president.  Their website includes a couple of photos of their tasting room from their early years.

As mentioned earlier, the place was packed.  In fact, I don’t recall ever seeing it so busy.  We had to wait a significant amount of time to get our food and wine pairing, which consisted of a Smoked Salmon and Caper Hors d-Oeuvre paired with their 2016 Merlot.  It was a challenge as we jockeyed for standing room in order to enjoy our tasty treats.  After managing that, it was time to find a spot at the bar to get our complimentary tastings.  This was a challenge as well, as every opening quickly filled and you had to be quite agile and somewhat strategic to get a spot.  We finally managed to do so, although Kathy was really the only one at the bar as I was kind of standing a bit off to her side and behind her.  It took several more minutes before I could fully stand at the bar.

The selection at Leelanau Wine Cellars is huge.  On this day, there were 49 different wines to choose from.  We had been here in the past, so we already had the pleasure of trying many of their wines.  The tough part was remembering what we had already tasted so we could enjoy something new.  Here were our final choices:

 Kathy’s selection:

  • 2017 Bubbly Rosé
  • Tall Ship Bubbly Rosé
  • Great Lakes Red Bubbly
  • 2017 Vintage Port (an estate wine)

John’s selections:

  • 2013 Late Harvest Vidal
  • 2018 Vignoles
  • Raspberry Dessert Wine
  • 2016 Apricot Pear Dessert Wine

Of the 3 bubblies that Kathy tried, we both agreed that we enjoyed the Great Lakes Bubbly the best.  I really enjoyed all of my choices, but my favorite was the Late Harvest Vidal.  We also both liked the Vintage Port, so when it came to taking home some bottles, our choices were easy – we took home one of each of our favorites.

Over the years, Kathy and I have bought at least 19 bottles of Leelanau Wine Cellars wine – at least, 19 bottles that I have recorded in our wine inventory.  I surmise many more bottles never made it to the list since I did not start keeping a list until 2018 and we had visited Leelanau
Wine Cellars at least once in 2017.  This also does not include the countless bottles Kathy has bought for our nieces as Christmas presents and the ports we have bought for my Dad.  In fact, Kathy bought me a bottle of their Winter White Peach Chill wine for Christmas this year, my favorite amongst all their wines.  So, to say that we like Leelanau Wine Cellars wine would be a gross understatement.  We have visited here at least 5 times, with all of our visits being memorable for one reason or another.  We have been there for three Toast the Season events.  We visited Leelanau Wine Cellars in August of 2018 when my daughter, Sarah, and her then boyfriend (now fiancée) Martin stopped in for tastings while vacationing in the area.  It happened to be a very warm day, so we spent as much time on the shore, sitting in Adirondack chairs and wading into the shallow waters just off the shore as we did inside at the wine tasting bar.  But we have not returned since the onset of COVID.  Lucky for us, we can find bottles of their wine at our local retail stores, but we really hope we get the chance to visit again very soon.

Be sure to visit the Leelanau Wine Cellars website for more information:     

https://lwc.wine/



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Monday, January 10, 2022

Small but Great

Silver Leaf Vineyard & Winery

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #71

After the largess and crowdedness at Black Star Farms, Kathy, Randy, Christie, and I decided it would be good to hit something a little smaller and out of the way in an attempt to avoid the large crowds we were encountering closer to Traverse City.  We knew of the perfect place.  With that in mind, we hopped back on SW Bay Shore Drive (M-22) and headed north, through Suttons Bay, for about 6.6 miles, until we reached North Stallman Road.  We turned left, heading northwest, with North Stallman Road turning into East McKeese Road about 0.15 miles from M-22.  We then made a right hand turn onto North Peshawbestown Road, about 1.0 mile from M-22, and headed north for another 0.4 miles where we turned left onto East Silver Leaf Farm Road.  This road is a narrow dirt road, and as we approached the entrance to the winery, we saw some cars parked along the side of the road, nearly making the road impassable.  We figured this was overflow from the parking area and took that as a sign that the winery was busier than we had hoped, but we soon found out otherwise.  The entrance to the parking area is a short drive up a very steep hill.  Under normal weather conditions, not a big deal, but with the ice and snow covering the road, it was a treacherous, and for some, impossible task to drive up the hill.  Thankfully, we were in a four-wheel drive pickup truck, but even with that advantage, we still slipped and slid our way up the hill.  I could only imagine what it would be like to go DOWN that hill.

Once we were safely in the parking lot, there were plenty of places to park, so there was still a chance that we had escaped the crowd.  The tasting room at Silver Leaf is very quaint.  They are a far cry from the larger, more commercial wineries that populate the Leelanau Peninsula, and they are quite content with that.  Silver Leaf prides itself for its smallness - handcraft wines, which are small-batch fermented, oak mellowed, hand-bottled, hand-corked, and hand-labeled. But all of this just adds to the charm and allure of the place. 

Silver Leaf Vineyard and Winery was founded in 2005 by Mark & Patti Carlson, who had moved to the area from the suburbs of Chicago.  Mark had spent many summers in Northport while growing up, so he was familiar with the area.   Before the sale, the land had been used as an asparagus farm and then for horse boarding and riding.  The Carlson’s renovated an old horse barn and turned it into the winery building, and they planted 3,000 grapevines.  Silver Leaf Vineyards and Winery was on its way.

Fast forward 10 years to 2015, Silver Leaf Vineyard and Winery was sold to Danielle and Mark Lienau, the current owners.  Mark left his career as an automotive engineer in the Detroit area to take on the challenge of running a vineyard and winery.  Mark runs everything at the estate, including working the tasting room and tending to the 30 acres of land that comprise the estate.  He grows Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, and buys other varieties of grapes from other vineyards in the area.  He contracts out many of his wines to other winemakers, but still makes some of his own.  During busy times of the year, like this particular weekend, he calls on friends and family to help out.  I assumed that either his parents or his wife’s parents were greeting everyone as they came in the door on this day, but we did not ask to verify if that was the case.  Normally I would do that, but the hustle and bustle of the day had me out of my game.

In any event, we were warmly greeted when we entered the quaint tasting room.  There was a table set up just inside the door where we got our tickets punched, got our wine sample (2016 Pinot Gris), and our paired food sample (a pair of mini-quiches – bacon & cheese, and Florentine).  The wine bar runs nearly three quarters the length of the south wall, and the north wall is dominated by windows and French Doors that lead to the outside deck, where, in nicer weather, you can sit outside with a beautiful view overlooking the vineyard.  The inside walls feature many works of art created by local artists, all for sale.  Mark keeps rotating new works throughout the year.  A really cool practice that adds to the charm of the tasting room.

Silver Leaf was a perfect anecdote for the chaos we encountered at our first three stops.  It was still busy, but far less people than our previous stops, so our strategy worked.  We found a table to stand at while we consumed our food and wine samples, and then gathered at the bar to get our two additional wine samples.  The wine list at Silver Leaf is shorter than most wineries in the area, but that did not matter to us.  On this day, there were 10 wines to choose from.  Below were our selections.

Kathy’s selection:

  • Passion – Our house red blended with our award-winning cherry wine.  Notes of blackberry, raspberry, black currant, and cherry.  If you are a timid red wine taster, this product will convert you.  Serve at room temperature with hearty Italian dishes such as lasagna or red sauce pasta, or chilled as Sangria. 
  • Chafia Cherry – Our multi-award and Gold Medal winner is a true cherry wine with a bright mouth feel and a “not too sweet” taste.  We couldn’t help but name this wine after what we affectionately refer to the “Cherry Mafia” of Leelanau County.  Enjoy with appetizers, as an after-dinner drink, or with your favorite ice cream.  GREAT with chocolate!

John’s selections:

  • ‘17 Leelanau Late Harvest Riesling – This is a very versatile wine that pairs perfectly with spicy sausage & pungent cheeses such as Blue or Raclette, your favorite sweet & savory dishes, or desserts such as Crème Brûlée, apricot and peach desserts, cheesecake, or apple pie.
  • Purple Foot – A true table wine specifically blended for pairing with food.  Made exclusively from Leelanau grapes, this wine is in search of savory, spicy, and even sour (think of brats and kraut) flavors to challenge it at the table or patio.  Subtle plum and fruit notes will present themselves when allowed to aerate as you are preparing your perfect match (limited production).

The Chafia Cherry was by far our favorite wine of the samples we tasted, and we would probably rate it in the top five of all cherry wines we have tasted so far.  We were also very enamored with the Passion.  The other wines were very good as well, but the two cherry wines were definitely our favorite.  We were in agreement that we would buy a bottle of the Chafia Cherry, but again, a check of our wine inventory showed we still had a bottle left at home.  We decided to hold off on buying more at this point, but of course, 2 full years later, we regret that decision.  At that time, we never thought, in a million years, that a worldwide pandemic would break out a few short months later and we would not make the trip back to Traverse City since.  We finally did drink that last bottle of Chafia Cherry in November 2020 – ironically, around the time of year that Taste the Season would have taken place had COVID not canceled the event for 2020.  We hope we will be able to return to Silver Leaf sometime soon.

We left the tasting room quite satisfied.  I took a couple of extra pictures of the vineyard and the charming little cottage that sits at the edge of the vineyard.  The cottage is available for renters, and reviews indicate that it is quite an awesome place to spend a romantic weekend.  I might have to add that to our bucket list.  For now, we just concentrated on getting down the hill without sliding into a ditch.  Fortunately, we did not have any problems, but we did have to wait a bit for another vehicle trying to negotiate the slick conditions.

Be sure to visit the Silver Leaf Vineyards and Winery on their Facebook site to get the latest news and happenings.     

https://www.facebook.com/Silver-Leaf-Vineyard-and-Winery-937183859672826/



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Sunday, January 9, 2022

Farewell, Fieldstone

Fieldstone Winery

Date Visited:  January 25, 2020

Stop:  #95

I’m going to pause our Toast the Season Tour, call an audible, and jump ahead a couple of months to talk about one of our favorite local wineries – Fieldstone – located in downtown Rochester, Michigan.  I want to do this because Fieldstone will be closing their doors for good on January 24, 2022 as owner, Pat Mulrenin, has decided to retire, and Ryan (Pat’s son), will be shifting all of his focus to 3 North Vines Winery in Lexington.  Although we are sad to see such a wonderful place like Fieldstone leave the Rochester community, we are very happy for Pat as he enters into a new and exciting chapter in his life.

It’s interesting how you can live most of your life in a community, yet not know many things about it.  For instance, until we had taken an interest in Michigan wines, we never knew Fieldstone existed even though we had been in downtown Rochester hundreds of times.  It was one of those unexpected surprises that made us wonder “How did we not KNOW about this place before now?”  We have visited Fieldstone many times since, most recently on Wednesday, January 5, 2022 when Kathy, my son, David, and I stopped in to wish Pat congratulations on his retirement and, of course, to drink some fantastic wine.  We have bought gift certificates on several occasions – in fact, my “official” first visit to Fieldstone was in the weeks leading up to Christmas 2019 when I purchased a gift certificate for my wife as a stocking stuffer for Christmas.  But our first visit to drink wine took place on February 7, 2020, just a couple of short weeks before the COVID pandemic exploded.  This was also the first of many visits we have made to a Michigan winery with David’s girlfriend, Rebecca. 

This was a big weekend for us as we were meeting Rebecca for the first time.  Since she had never been to the area before, it seemed like a Michigan Wines and Signs tour was appropriate.  We focused on the local area, mostly Rochester and Sterling Heights, so I had chosen a route that would cover 8 historical markers and 3 wineries.  Our visit to Fieldstone was our fourth stop on the route.

Fieldstone is located in downtown Rochester, on Main Street, between 2nd Street and 3rd Street on the west side of Main.  It is nestled between Rochester Bistro and Main Street Billiards.  The interior is very cozy and intimate.  The bar is at the rear of the store, and there are several tables for sitting in the area from the front windows back to the bar.  Wine racks line the north wall, and the south wall has shelves full of wine related paraphernalia.  The interior is dominated with dark wood, which adds to the homey atmosphere of the tasting room.  The winery was founded by Pat and his brother, Steve, in 2003, continuing a wine-making tradition started by their grandfather.  Steve and Pat learned how to make wine from their uncle and decided to share their craft with the public by opening Fieldstone.  Steve and Pat both had full-time jobs at the time, but eventually, Pat quit his job to focus all his attention on the winery.  From their website, you will learn that Pat’s sons, Ryan and Kevin, work at the winery.  You’ll also read that Kevin is a special-needs person, so quitting his job allowed Pat to focus more of his attention not only on the winery, but also on Kevin and his needs.  Ryan has become the chief cider maker.  Fieldstone Hard Cider Company is the first cidery in Rochester and Ryan creates many varieties of small batch ciders, from dry to sweet, using local apples from Macomb and Oakland Counties.

On this particular day, because it was a sloppy winter mess outside, there were no other customers in the place, so we started at the bar and moved to a nearby table once we decided on our tastings.  Fieldstone has a wide variety of wines – on this particular day, 30 different wines and 8 different hard ciders.  Over our many visits, we have probably tried every wine and cider on the list, but on this day, being our first visit, it was hard to narrow it down to 4 tastings (four 2-ounce tastings for $8.00).  Below is where we all landed:

Kathy’s selections:

  • Michigan Apple – Michigan Apples, bright apple flavor, smooth acidic structure, refreshing.
  • Hot Spiced Apple – Warm apple pie right in your glass
  • Espresso Royale – semi-dry – coffee infused from Lexington coffee w/ 3 North Vines.
  • Cinilla – semi-dry – cinnamon and vanilla

John’s selections:

  • Riesling Semi-Dry – delicate yet complex, fresh, crisp, medium acidity, floral, peach, apricot.
  • Chocolate Orange – chocolate & orange combine with a big ruby port.
  • White Cranberry Pinot – white cranberries have a classic taste without the tartness, bright, sweet.
  • Red Ice – cabernet franc, sweet, currants, strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry.

David’s selections:

  • Pinot Noir – ruby colored, medium bodied, fruit forward, soft tannins, subtle oak.
  • Red Ice – cabernet franc, sweet, currants, strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry.
  • Motor City Red 2017 – fruity nose with hints of cherry, chocolate subtle oak.
  • Merlot Zinfandel – medium to full body, blackberry, black currants, cherry.

Rebecca’s selections:  I did not get a copy of what Rebs ordered, but I do know they were all red wines.  One of the things we learned about Rebs on this trip was that she really loves her dry red wines.

We truly enjoyed all of our selections.  Kathy raved about the Cinilla hard cider.  We all agreed that the Red Ice was our favorite.  As far as dry reds are concerned, the Pinot Noir was excellent.  When it came to selecting bottles to buy, we settled on a bottle of Red Ice and a bottle of Chocolate Cherry Port (our server was kind enough to let us try a free sample).

As I mentioned previously, we have returned to Fieldstone many times.  We have made a couple of spontaneous drop-ins, and some planned visits, each time enjoying the atmosphere, the wine, the ciders, and the company.  Kathy and I visited just before Christmas, 2021 because we were out and about and just wanted to have some wine close to home.  We each did a flight, and then to top the visit off, had a glass of warm Tradition Red mulled wine.  On a cold winter day, this was a perfect choice.  On at least one occasion, we dropped by for some wine before our dinner reservations at Rochester Bistro.  Our latest visit, mentioned earlier in this blog, we enjoyed a flight, and an additional glass of wine, and walked out with seven bottles of wine – three bottles of Pinot Noir, a bottle each of Moscato, Viognier, Motor City Red, and Raspberry Peach Meritage.  It will probably be our final visit to Fieldstone, so it was bittersweet.  But, we did have the pleasure of enjoying a nice conversation with Pat.

We congratulated Pat on his pending retirement, but told him we were sad to see Fieldstone close.  He explained it was a tough decision, but that it was time.  He wants to spend more time with his son, Kevin.  Ryan has become very involved with 3 North Vines, especially since they opened a second tasting room location in downtown Lexington – the former Lexington Brewing Company and Wine House (Blog #36) in the historic Old Town Hall and Masonic Temple (Blog #37) building.  Pat told us that he actually had purchased that building when Blue Water Winery decided to close and that he is leasing it to 3 North Vines.  The plan is to renovate the rest of the building, which includes a second and third floor (not currently being used).  It was fun to see an Instagram post a couple days ago showing the old staircase leading to the second floor, which hadn’t been seen in years.  Ryan will continue to make his ciders and 3 North Vines will carry them under the Fieldstone name.  So, at least a part of the legacy of Pat and Steve will live on.  The conversation with Pat was the perfect ending to our visit.  Thank you, Pat, and the Fieldstone staff over the years, for being such an important part of the Rochester community.  You will be truly missed.

Please be sure to stop by and visit Fieldstone while you can.  They just had their customer appreciation day on January 8, but there is still two more weeks to stop in, drink some wine, and hopefully buy a few bottles.  Be sure to congratulate Pat on his upcoming retirement!!




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Sunday, December 5, 2021

Hanging with the INN Crowd

Black Star Farms Suttons Bay

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #70

We were about an hour and a half into our Toast the Season wine tour through the Leelanau Peninsula when we left Two K Farms Cidery and Winery and headed towards our next destination.  We jumped back on SW Bay Shore Drive (M-22) and headed north.  We drove 1.0 mile to East Revold Road, where we turned left and headed west for a short distance – about 318 feet, to be exact.  Another left, and we turned into Black Star Farms.  The narrow driveway winds through the north end of the vineyard, passing the beautiful Inn at Black Star Farms, which dominates the landscape.  After about 0.3 miles, we came upon the Tasting Room, which is the last building on the right side as we traveled south on the driveway.  The large parking lot was nearly full, which was not surprising seeing as Black Star Farms is one of the most popular stops on the Leelanau Peninsula wine trail.  Braving the cold and the sloppy conditions, we made it to the front entrance and, alas, entered an extremely busy tasting room. 

Now, this is not a small tasting room.  In fact, it is probably one of the largest tasting rooms we have ever been in.  With a large Bar-In-the-Round dominating the main room, there is also an extension of the room on the south side with 3 or 4 portable bars available to accommodate larger crowds.  There is also a private room on the west side of the main room.  Additionally, there is an outdoor bar on the east side of the tasting room which they can close up with portable panels to protect customers from the cold and other inclement weather.  This has become one of my very favorite wineries in Michigan, not only for the atmosphere in the tasting room, but also for the enormous selection of incredibly delicious wines.  Add in the assorted spirits made onsite at the distillery, and customers have a wide breadth of selections to choose from.  It would be easy to spend several hours here.

But, we did not have several hours to spare, so we had to get right down to business.  First, was to drink our complementary bubbly offered to us by the hostess as we entered the room.  Since the line for the food and wine samples was fairly long, having something to sip on while standing in line was a nice added touch.  It’s this attention to customers that solidifies Black Star Farms as one of my favorite places.  The Staff has always been attentive to our needs whenever we have been there.  They are friendly, informative, knowledgeable, and very courteous.  They converse with us, they laugh with us, and advise us – no matter how busy they are.  They make us feel special every time we visit.

We can only imagine this customer focused culture was created by the owners, Kerm and Sallie Campbell.  My experiences after 37 years in the business world tells me that the culture of a business is borne from the personalities and values of its owners.  Kerm and Sallie, along with founding partner Donald Coe, purchased and founded Black Star Farms in 1998.  The Campbell’s love for wine evolved after living in Europe for several years, and when they returned to the States, they purchased what was at the time an equestrian estate.  Today, the estate is 160 acres with the Inn being the centerpiece.  It has 10 rooms, each named after a star in the northern sky.  The estate also includes the vineyard, winery and Tasting Room, a distillery, farm-to-table café, multiple wedding and corporate venues, on-site catering, hiking trails, working farm, equestrian facility with indoor and outdoor riding arena, Centennial event barn, and more.  Today, Kerm is the sole proprietor of the estate.  It is truly an incredible place to visit, and a stay at the Inn is high on my bucket list of things to do. 

We finally made it to the front of the line and received our pairing:  a squash and apple pierogi with Riesling poached apples, buttermilk crème, and chives paired with the 2018 Arcturos Gewürztraminer.  It was a perfect pairing, and we enjoyed it immensely.  Once we polished off our food and wine samples, the tricky task became finding a spot at the bar.  We had to wait for a bit, but eventually we were able to carve out a space for two at one end of the bar while Randy and Christie ended up at the other end.  Black Star Farms was offering 5 additional samples per person, one of the more generous offerings during this event.  To make things easy, they had created 4 different pre-selected wine flights – a dry white flight, a dry red flight, a Staff Favorites flight, and a sweet flight.  Each flight contained 5 different wines.  This certainly made selecting wines easy since Black Star Farms produces 45 different wines and spirits. 

Selecting our flights was pretty easy, since Kathy and I are not really dry wine fans.  Kathy’s palate is evolving to appreciate some dry wines, whereas mine has not quite made that leap.  So, Kathy chose the Staff Favorites Flight, and I selected the Sweet Flight.  Our bartender was Olivia, who was the manager at that time at the Black Star Farm’s Mission Point winery.  Since the Toast the Season event is extremely popular, she was needed to help accommodate the large crowds.  She was a perfect hostess for us.  Very engaging and knowledgeable, she was a pleasure to talk to.  She told us about each of the wines we were about to sample.  Kathy really wanted to try the Vintners Select wine, which was not a choice in the Staff Favorites Flight, so Olivia told her she could substitute one of the wines in her flight for the Vintners Select.  Olivia truly made our visit a special one. 

Our final wine selections looked like this:

Kathy’s selection:

STAFF FAVORITES FLIGHT

  • 2018 Arcturos Pinot Gris – Complex with melon and delicate notes.
  • 2018 Arcturos Pinot Noir Rosé – Bright and fresh berry fruit notes.
  • 2017 Arcturos Sur Lie Chardonnay – Vanilla and flinty aromas with rich tropical fruits.
  • 2017 Arcturos Pinot Noir – Bright berry nose delicately touched with spicy oak.
  • Vintners Select – Rich dark fruit flavors and a hint of cocoa and spice. (substituted for the Red House Red – Fruit driven with layered flavors and hints of oak).

John’s selections:

SWEET FLIGHT

  • Black Star Farms Hard Apple Cherry Cider – Bubbly, with crisp apple and cherry.
  • 2017 Arcturos Late Harvest Riesling – Rich apricot, pear, and honeysuckle notes.
  • Delighted – Bubby with red berries flavors and a lush fruity finish.
  • Black Star Farms Pear Wine – Made from 100% Bartlett Pears.
  • Sirius Raspberry Dessert Wine – This dessert wine is the essence of fresh raspberries.

Kathy enjoyed the Chardonnay, which she thought was really smooth but not overly buttery.  Olivia mentioned that that wine was aged in steel containers and not oak barrels.  Kathy also thought my Delighted wine was fun, and thought that the Pear Wine had a really good flavor – it tasted like a nice ripe pear (which has not been our experience with other pear wines we have tasted).  I agreed with Kathy on the Delighted wine and the Pear Wine, but I also really enjoyed their Late Harvest Riesling.  When it came to deciding what we should buy, the choice was easy.  We ended up with one bottle each of the Pear Wine and the Late Harvest Riesling, and 3 bottles of Delighted.  We have already drunk all five bottles, so it is time for us to make a return trip to Black Star Farms.

Be sure to visit the Black Star Farms website to get a list of their current wines and ciders, and their current business hours. https://www.blackstarfarms.com/



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Saturday, November 27, 2021

Great Views, Ciders, and Wines

Two K Farms Cidery & Winery

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #69

Our second stop on our Toast of the Season wine tour through the Leelanau Peninsula was only 2 miles away.  We made our way down the hill from Ciccone Vineyard towards SW Bay Shore Drive (M-22) and headed north.  About 1.2 miles on the left was the entrance to Two K Farms Cidery and Winery.  A long winding uphill climb later, we parked in the only parking spot remaining.  Sitting atop a glacial dune, the tasting room has one of the most spectacular scenic views on the peninsula, overlooking West Grand Traverse Bay.  On this day, the tasting room was devoid of tables and chairs.  The gently arced wood bar dominates the west wall of the room, allowing an unobstructed panoramic view through the wall of windows on the east side of the room.  The room has a high ceiling with exposed beams and antique chandeliers, making the room feel older than it actually is.  A fireplace dominates the south wall of the room.  There is a wrap-around deck that offers an opportunity to sit outside and enjoy the scenery while indulging in their wines and ciders.  It is truly one of my favorite places to enjoy wine.

The farmland on which the cidery and winery resides has its origins dating back to the early 1800’s.  The first owner of the land was a War of 1812 veteran who was granted the land as part of his military service.  Eventually the farm was sold to Robert Lee in 1855, and he and his family continued to work the land until the early 2000’s.  At one point, the farm totaled more than 400 acres, extending all the way down to the shores of West Grand Traverse Bay.  The red barn, which can be seen from M-22 and sits just north of the entrance to the cidery and winery, is the lone surviving building from the original farm.  The topography of the farm was dominated by a drumlin dune, created by the glaciers that carved all of the land in this region.  The dune was altered twice over the years – once when M-22 was constructed in the 1940s, and again when the tasting room and processing room were constructed in 2017-2018.

The Lee farm was bought by K & K Farm Group in 2010.  By that time, most of the farmland (80 acres total) was dormant except for a few acres of corn and hay.  The next five years were spent planting 35 different varieties of heritage apple trees and grapevines.  Their first harvest was in 2016. 

Two K Farms opened their tasting room on September 21, 2018.  They already have won several national awards for their ciders and wines.  This is due to the dedication of brothers George and Max Koskela (the K & K brothers), who manage the farm and are involved in every aspect of running it, and the great staff working there.  We got to experience the great staff firsthand!!

When we entered the tasting room, we were guided to the south side of the room and told to go outside to get our food sample and paired beverage.  They had set up a small tent on the south side of their deck with a heater inside, and we waited in a short line to get an Apple and Cheddar Biscuit Bite and a sample of New World Cider.  We went back inside and stood along the windows enjoying our samples and the scenery (as well as the warmth!).  The cider was delicious and paired very nicely with the biscuit bite.  The room was quite busy, but we were able to find some spots up at the bar so we could enjoy our wine/cider samples.  Our hostess warmly greeted us and provided a lot of great information about the cidery and winery, as well as great descriptions of the ciders and wines available for us to sample.  She truly had passion for this place, and we really appreciated her kindness and the attention she afforded us, especially given how busy they were.  We were allowed two additional samples each, and since they only had 4 wines available, we decided to pass on the ciders and focus on the wines.  Kathy and I divvied up the 4 four wines accordingly:

Kathy’s selections:

John’s selections:

  • Riesling
  • Bubbly Riesling.

I love Riesling, and Two K Farms does a great job with their Rieslings.  I truly enjoyed them.  Kathy has been looking for a good apple wine, and the Colonnade was a great choice.  Also, we have struggled in finding rosés that we both like, and again, Two K Farms did not disappoint with their Cille.  We were set to buy some wine but decided to check our inventory to see if we had any wine left over from our 2018 visit.  Checking the list, we still had a bottle of the Colonnade and the Riesling, as well as a bottle of the Sangria still at home.  So, for the second winery in a row, we decided not to buy any bottles.  It was time to move on to our third winery of the day, so we gathered up Randy and Christie and bid farewell to our hostess and headed out.

Be sure to visit the Two K Farms website to get a list of their current wines and ciders, and their current business hours.  http://www.twokfarms.com/

 


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Sunday, October 31, 2021

A Special Connection

Ciccone Vineyard & Winery

Date Visited:  November 9, 2019

Stop:  #68

This was the first “official” day of the Toast of the Season wine tour through the Leelanau Peninsula.  It would only make sense to describe what this all entails before I get into each of our winery visits.  We bought two tickets a couple of months ahead of the event which gave us access to the 25 wineries on the Leelanau Peninsula participating in the wine tour.  You pick one winery to be your start point, and at 11:00 am on Saturday, you check-in at your start point and are given a gift bag that contains a wine tumbler and a few other small gifts – a bag of chips, discount tickets, etc.  Then, you get your small food sample and a sample of the featured wine paired with the food.  After enjoying the food and wine, most wineries will also include a couple additional pours of their wines - your choice (anywhere from 2 to 5 additional wine samples).  At that point, we typically buy some wine and then head on to our next destination.  At this point, you can go to any winery you want in any order.  Since our objective is to hit as many wineries as possible, we do not linger for long around any one winery.  This trip is not about the quality of our visit more than it is about the quantity of wineries we can visit and explore where we want to return.  Kathy and Christie meticulously map out the most efficient routes that allow us to maximize our winery visits.  The event covers two days – 11 am to 5 pm on Saturday, 12 noon to 5 pm on Sunday.  We have yet to visit every winery on the list, but we usually hit 23-25 over the two days, so the challenge is always to outdo the year before.

Our starting point for this weekend was Willow Vineyards.  However, we found out the morning of the event that, due to the horrible weather from the day and night before, Willow Vineyards would not be open for the weekend.  Ice buildup made entry into their parking lot impossible to navigate.  So, we were redirected to Ciccone Vineyard and Winery, which was just a short distance up the road.  Ciccone Vineyard and Winery sits atop a hill on East Hilltop Road with a beautiful view of the surrounding area, including the west arm of the Grand Traverse Bay.  Since the number of people now using Ciccone as their starting point was doubled, there was already quite a crowd when we arrived.  We got in line, received our gift bag, our featured wine, and headed back to the west room for our food pairing. 

If the name Ciccone sounds familiar, then you may have already figured out that the owners of this vineyard and winery are the father (Silvio “Tony”) and mother (Joan) of Madonna (one of 8 children raised by Tony and Joan).  The winery holds a special place in our hearts not only because of the great wines we’ve had there, but also the family’s connection to Rochester Hills.  In fact, some of the kids went to the same high school as one of our friends (and years later, our own kids). 

When Tony retired as an optical engineer, and Joan sold her business, the two headed north with hopes of fulfilling their dream of owning a vineyard and winery.  Tony, being a first generation American from Italy, had grown up making and drinking homemade wine.  In 1995, they acquired their current land and the Ciccone Vineyard and Winery was established.  The following Spring, the first five acres were planted by hand with Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Gewürztraminer.

Tony and Joan have passed on the Ciccone tradition of making wine to their son, Mario, and their daughter, Paula.  Mario is the vineyard manager, making sure the grapevines are tended to and thrive, and Paula is the winemaker – one of only two female winemakers in Leelanau County.  Between the two of them, they have grown and produced many award-winning wines.

During prior “Toast the Season” events, we’ve enjoyed the opportunity to have a brief conversation with Joan as she personally helped serve. Being able to meet an owner and hear a bit of their story transforms a visit from a couple of sips of wine to a special occasion.  For our pairing today, we enjoyed a Chocolate Dessert from the Great Lakes Chocolate Company paired with the 2018 Grazie (a fruited vinifera).  It was a very good pairing, but we did miss Joan’s delectable Italian cuisine (she has the most amazing meatballs!) and conversations she always shared with us and her patrons.

Once we finished our pairing, we headed back into the main tasting room.  I really love this room – a very sturdy oak bar topped with large wood posts and a pergola, matching wood posts and beams supporting the vaulted ceiling, a stone fireplace with leather couch fronting it, an ornate metal cross hanging over the massive wood mantle to the fireplace, old wine barrels serving as tables, and just an overall cozy feeling on a very cold winter day.  However, the warmth in that room was probably due to the huge number of people gathered in it and not from the fire in the fireplace.  We had to wait a bit to move our way up to the bar.  On this day, the winery offered two additional free samples.  In short order, we chose the following:

Kathy’s selections:

1.     2018 Rosé

2.     2017 Dolcetto – A varietal from Northern Italy.

John’s selections:

1.     2017 Pacentro – Off-dry blend of Pinot Blanc and Golden Muscat.

2.     2018 Sweet Caroline – Concentrated sweet Chardonnay.

We enjoyed our samples – I was partial to the Sweet Caroline and Kathy favored the Dolcetto.  But, we had agreed that, due to the large quantity of wine we already had at home, that we would not go crazy this year buying up cases of wine.  Since we had limited samples to try, we decided not to buy anything this year from Ciccone.  In hindsight, I wish we had since the pandemic made a return trip to Ciccone in 2020 an impossibility and we have since depleted our inventory of Ciccone wines. We missed the ticket sales for Toast the Season this year, so we're going to have to look for another opportunity next year!

For REFERENCE, the following is the wine selection currently at Ciccone (as of October 13, 2021):

Estate Bottled White Wine

   2019 Pinot Grigio

   2020 Riesling

   2020 Chardonnay

   2019 Gerwurztraminer

   2018 Nectar (blend of Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay)

   2020 Pacentro (Off-dry Blend of Pinot Blanc and Golden Muscat)

   2019 Sweet Caroline (Concentrated Sweet Chardonnay)

 Estate Bottled Red Wine

   2020 Pinot Noir

   2019 Cabernet Franc

   2020 Novanto Dolcetto (Celebrating Tony's 90th Birthday, Novanto (90 in Italian) is dry, tannic, and wonderfully smooth)

   2019 Ridge Red

   2020 Tramonto Red (Unique blend of our signature Dolcetto, and four different French Hybrids.  Off-dry)

   2020 Lee La Tage (Bordeaux Blend Cab Franc, Cab Sav, Merlot & Malbec)

   2020 Dolcetto (Varietal from Northern Italy)

Estate Bottled Rosé & Blush Wines

  2020 Blush

   2019 Rosé De Pinot Noir

   Soirée (A classic Champagne blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir)

  2020 Romato

   2020 Frankie (Ice Style Wine made from Cabernet Franc Grapes)

 Specialty Wine

    Grazie (Pinot Noir, Cherry and Apple)

   2017 Starboard (Port-style wine. Fortified blend of Chardonnay, Balaton Cherries, and peach)




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